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5ci and A2500 Winches - 63070 ATV winches, mounts and accessories for KFI Products KFI and other ATV Winches and KFI ATV winch mounts and Accessories Ramsey Winch REP 8000 Parts. PO Box 258 Trinity Center, CA 96091 Phone: 53 Toll Free: 87. I think they were used on the 310’s also.Traveler winch parts $19. TractormanNwv- the winch control you describe may be on a Gearmatic #9.
Carco 30 winch free#
“Don’t leave the winch in free spool position for more than two or three minutes at a time.”Ī picture shows the pressure gauge tee installed in the line from the valve you have labeled as to the clutch, and you measure pressure with levr in free spool position. 5W-20 or 10W-30 if daily temp changes are extreme. Oil- 6 qts motor oil sae30wt above 90F, 20wt from 90-32F, 10wt from 32-0F, ATF type A below 0F. Hydraulic pressure 1000 – 1200 psi at low idle speed and oil warmed up. Would this be a problem?įor what it’s worth, from the operators manual. I was thinking about replacingthe valve with a log splitter valve too, but was wondering if the feature that causes the valve to pop into neutral when the splitter cyinder fully retracts would get in the way of it holding in detent for the winch brake release, since it has to hold under pressure. The internals must be leaky and worn because it’s hard to find the sweet spot where it releases the brake and it’s not consistent. The lever was held in position by two light springs, one is broken and the other is just gone, so I have to keep it wired in the neutral position or it flops around. The control valve is a rotary valve with no name or markings. I’ve got a Case 310 with the same winch (Carco model C12), and I’m having the same difficulty with the free spooling. I'd like it to freespool in detent like it's supposed to, as it's a two man operation to get cable out now. I've attached a schematic of what I believe the plumbing to be so everyone can see it. The clutch portion is pretty straight forward. It seems to me that the control valve would have to block flow to force the pressure to rise in that line to disengage the brake. The odd thing to me is that the pump supply is teed directly to the brake. The brake is supposed to be engaged with no hydraulic pressure applied, and the clutch is disengaged with no pressure. I've posted pictures of everything I think is relevant. You have to hold the control in a very precise position just above the detent point to get the winch to free spool. Once it latches into the detent, the brake engages again. The winch will free spool just before the control latches into the detent position. The brake holds in center, and it pulls great when the handle is lifted. The hydraulic control lever has three positions: Center is supposed to have the break engaged, down is detent which is supposed to be free spool, and up retrieves the cable. The old winch was strictly gear driven so this one is much nicer with the hydraulic controls.
My father and I just put the 'new' winch on it from a parts machine. I've got a Case 320 (I think) bulldozer that was my grandfathers, then my fathers, and now mine. Hoping someone is familiar enough with this equipment to help me out.
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